---

The Portuguese capital is a collage of cultural influences and visual imagery. Allow us to guide you through this eminently liveable and fast-changing city.

Like the seven sun-dappled hills that overlook the sparkling Rio Tejo, Lisbon has had its ups and downs. Nevertheless, the plucky city has always bounced back and today it´s positively thriving: well-travelled residents and foreign talent are opening smart businesses behind every other crumbling, azulejo-covered fa‡ade.

Most visitors spend their time in the historic old town but we´re going to take you further afield. We´ve combed the cobbled streets to find the best bacalhau, the creamiest pastéis de nata and the sweetest ginjinha. We´ve visited museums dedicated to everything from horse-drawn carriages to cutting-edge technology and discovered daringly modern architecture among red-tiled townhouses and baroque churches. Our favourite hotels range from a refurbished 15th-century palácio to a glossy guesthouse, while the retail we rate includes a family-run glove-maker and a snappy bookshop with an in-house gallery.

---